Rust Treatment Guides

Fuel Tank Sealer: Which Kit Do I Need?
A tank sealer kit saves a rusty fuel tank for a fraction of replacement cost. But which kit? Here's how to choose. Match the kit to tank size Kits are sized by tank capacity. Undersizing means you won't fully coat the inside; oversizing wastes product. Measure your tank's litres and pick accordingly. Match it to rust level Light rust: a standard clean + de-rust + seal kit is plenty. Heavy rust/scale: choose a kit with a stronger de-rust stage, and budget extra flushing time. Follow the full process Whichever kit... Read more...
Underbody Rustproofing for Australian Conditions
Coastal salt air, beach driving and the wet season make Australia tough on underbodies. A proper rustproofing job pays for itself many times over. Inspect first Get the car up and look closely at rails, seams, floor pans and suspension mounts — that's where rust starts. Treat existing rust Convert or seal any rust you find before coating over it (the 4-stage system applies here too). Coat & protect Seal the metal, then armour exposed areas with a tough coating like RAPTOR or a chassis coat. Get into the cavities... Read more...
How to Prep Bare Metal for Paint
Every paint failure traces back to prep. Get bare metal ready properly and your finish bonds for good. Here's the sequence. 1. Clean & degrease Wax, oil and fingerprints stop paint bonding. Degrease thoroughly and don't touch the bare metal afterwards. 2. Remove rust Strip any rust back to sound metal or treat it (you can't paint over active rust — see why). 3. Etch / prime Bare steel needs an etch or tie-coat so the topcoat grips. This is Stage 3 of the system. 4. Topcoat promptly Don't leave... Read more...
Engine Bay Restoration: The KBS MotorCoater Guide
Nothing lifts a restoration like a crisp engine bay. KBS MotorCoater is an engine enamel built to take heat, fuel and oil without lifting — here's how to use it. Why engine enamel, not normal paint Engine bays get hot and splashed with fuel and oil. Ordinary paint softens and peels. MotorCoater is formulated to resist heat and chemicals and hold its colour. The process Strip and clean the block/bracket back to sound metal — see how to prep bare metal. Treat any rust first (Stage 1–2 of the 4-stage... Read more...
How to Apply RAPTOR Liner Like a Pro
RAPTOR is the tough, tintable protective coating used on ute trays, tubs, trailers and chassis. Applied right, it's bulletproof. Here's how to nail it. Prep is 90% of the job Scuff the surface for adhesion, then clean and degrease. RAPTOR grips a keyed, clean surface — it won't stick to gloss or grease. Tint it your colour RAPTOR is tintable, so you can match body colour or go classic black. Mix the hardener as directed. Spray or roll Spray (with the schutz gun) for the signature textured finish — adjust... Read more...
How to Stop Surface Rust Before It Spreads
That light orange film on a panel or bracket is surface rust. It looks minor — but it's the start of structural rust. The good news: caught early, it's a 30-minute fix. Why early action matters Surface rust traps moisture against bare steel. Left alone it pits, then perforates. Treating it now costs a few dollars; ignoring it costs panels. The quick fix Scuff off the loose rust with a wire brush or abrasive pad. Clean and degrease the area. Treat with a rust converter or seal with an encapsulator... Read more...
Best Rust Converter for a 4WD Chassis
Australian 4WDs live hard — beach salt, river crossings, mud and dust. The chassis is where rust wins if you let it. Here's how to protect it. Step 1 — Convert what you can't remove You can't blast a whole chassis in the driveway. A converter like Brunox Epoxy neutralises rust in the seams and box sections you can't reach, and primes in one step. Step 2 — Seal it Over the converted surface, seal with an encapsulating coating so water and salt can't restart corrosion. KBS RustSeal and POR-15... Read more...
How to Use POR-15: A Step-by-Step Guide
POR-15 is one of the toughest rust-preventive coatings on earth — but only if you prep correctly. Skip the prep and it peels; do it right and it lasts decades. Here's the proper process. The golden rule: POR-15 needs the 3-step prep Clean & degrease — remove oil, grease and grime so nothing blocks the bond. Remove loose rust — wire-brush or sand off flaking rust (POR-15 bonds to sound rust, not loose scale). Metal prep / etch — etch the surface so the coating grips. This step is non-negotiable... Read more...
The 4-Stage Rust Treatment System, Explained
Every lasting rust repair follows the same four stages. Get the system right and the result outlives the car. Here it is, simply. Stage 1 — Prep & rust removal Strip loose rust, old paint and grease back to sound metal. Shop Stage 1 → Stage 2 — Rust seal Encapsulate the treated metal so air and moisture can never reach it. This is the step that actually stops the rust. Shop Stage 2 → Stage 3 — Primer Key the sealed surface so your topcoat bonds and lasts. Shop... Read more...
Can You Paint Over Rust? What Actually Works
Short answer: painting ordinary paint straight over rust will fail — fast. But there is a right way to coat rusted metal so it lasts. Here's the difference. Why normal paint fails on rust Enamel and acrylic sit on the surface. Rust underneath keeps reacting with trapped moisture, lifts the paint and bubbles through within months. Option 1 — Rust converters A converter like Brunox Epoxy chemically transforms red rust into a stable, paintable surface and primes it in one step. Ideal for areas you can't fully strip back to... Read more...
How to Seal a Rusty Fuel Tank (Without Replacing It)
A rusty fuel tank means blocked filters, dead fuel pumps and a no-start classic. A new tank can cost a fortune — but a tank sealer kit will save the original for a fraction of the price. Step 1 — Drain and clean Remove the tank, drain all fuel and flush it out. Degrease the inside thoroughly so the sealer can bond. Step 2 — De-rust Pour in a rust remover/etch (part of most KBS and POR-15 tank kits), slosh it to cover every internal surface, and let it dissolve... Read more...
KBS RustSeal vs POR-15: Which Rust Sealer Should You Use?
KBS RustSeal and POR-15 are the two most trusted rust-encapsulating sealers in the world. Both bond directly to rusted metal and cure into a rock-hard, moisture-proof shell. So which should you use? Here's an honest comparison. How they're similar Both are moisture-cured coatings that actually get harder when exposed to humidity, both seal rusted metal so corrosion can't continue, and both are far tougher than ordinary enamel. For most jobs, either will give you a result that lasts decades. KBS RustSeal — the system approach KBS is built around a... Read more...
How to Stop Rust on a Classic Car: The Complete Australian Guide
Rust is the number-one enemy of any Australian classic-car project. Left alone it spreads under paint, eats structural metal and destroys resale value. The good news: with the right system you can stop rust permanently — no panel-beating shop required. Why rust keeps coming back Most "rust treatments" fail because they only paint over the problem. Surface rust traps moisture and oxygen against bare metal, so it keeps converting steel to iron oxide under the coating. To stop it for good you have to remove what you can, chemically convert... Read more...